Based on a typical double-hung window installation.
Please refer to our Glossary of Window Terms
• Always wear proper safety protection and follow tool manufacturer’s instructions.
• Conduct a full installation on one window before moving to multiple windows.
• With a double-hung window, fully fit the upper sash first, including the re-hanging of sash to weights, before fitting the lower sash.
• Remove barbed-pile prior to painting.
• Router with typical base
• Hand or power plane
•Small adjustable square
• 1/4” mortising bit for router
• 1/8” by 3/8” slot cutting bit with bearing Item # ART 845
• Utility Knife
• Trim Router
• Belt Sander
Want to find out more?
Do you have additional questions?
Please contact us:
Advanced Repair Technology
PO Box 510
Cherry Valley, NY 13320
Monday - Friday 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM EST
Monday - Friday 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM EST
We provide you with the technology to do the job…
You have the experience to do it right.
1) Remove upper and lower sash, place on a bench. Remove any existing weather-stripping system.
2) All repair work to sash and frame should be completed prior to installation of weather-stripping See ART’s Wood Repair System for Details
3) In most cases, a pass or two with a plane along both sides of the stile will be necessary to accommodate the barbed-pile. If the old metal weather-stripping was once installed, this step may not be required. Remember, always conduct a full installation on one window before moving to multiple windows.
4) Using a router fitted with the recommended slot-cutting bit with bearing, cut a groove on the edge of stile (portion that faces the pulley stile when installed in frame) from top to bottom on both sides.
Position groove in 1/4” to 3/8” off the edge to miss the existing plough originally installed to accommodate the weight cord and pulley. If the groove is cut too close to the outside edge of the sash, you may create a weak point prone to damage. If the existing plough is too wide, run the kerf in the middle of the stile and stop at the plough.
Place the router base on the exterior face of the upper and lower sash cutting a groove on the edge closer to the outside of the sash. The meeting rail will keep you from running the router all the way up the sash if you place the base on the inside face of the sash.
5) Using the same router setting as noted in #4, cut a groove across the top of the upper sash and bottom of lower sash.
6) Install the barbed-pile weather-stripping in the kerf on the top of the upper sash. If the window frame or sash is out of square you have two options:
• Plane upper rail to fit head of frame prior to cutting kerf
• Install a thicker pile such as ART #803 1/4” barbed-pile height
7) Install the barbed-pile on the two edges of sash.
8) Hold upper sash in place without reinstalling sash on cords or chains. Move sash up and check fit side-to-side. Fit should be snug but should move easily up and down with minimal effort.
9) If sash is too snug, plane more wood off one or both sides.
10) Re-hang upper sash on counter weights. Upper sash is completed. Install new or salvaged parting stops.
11) The lower sash will need additional work to install barbed-pile at the meeting rail. Meeting rails have several different configurations too numerous to address properly. Re-adjust the depth on the router to position the kerf in the center of the meeting rail.
12) In many cases it may be necessary to cut an additional shallow-wider groove to accommodate the “shoulder” of the barbed-pile. This dimension should be 1/4” in width , 1/16” in depth. This groove will recess the “shoulder” of the weather-stripping preventing it from “bumping” the upper meeting rail. This will require changing the router bit to a ¼” mortising bit. The use of an additional router is helpful so as not to loose the setting on the slot-cutting bit. An inexpensive trim router ( laminate trimmer ) can handle the task.
13) In most cases the ART #802, our 1/8” barbed-pile, should suffice. Experimenting with different pile heights at the meeting-rail will achieve the optimal results.
14) Install the barbed-pile as noted for upper sash #6 to #9 above.
15) Install the lower sash without counter weights and check for fit side to side only. In most cases the meeting rails will not line up. It is now necessary to plane a certain amount off the bottom of the lower sash.
16) Carefully measure the distance between the top of the upper meeting rail and the top of the lower meeting rail. In most cases this distance will be 3/16” plus or minus.
17) Remove lower sash and barbed-pile. Mark and plane the required amount off bottom of sash. Care should be taken to match the original bevel of sill (5 to 12 degrees)
18) Re-groove lower sash for the barbed-pile if necessary.
19) Re-install lower sash with barbed-pile in place.
20) Meeting rails should line-up allowing proper closing of existing sash locks. If too high repeat #18. If too low, install next thickness of pile.
21) Re-hang lower sash on counter weights. Install new or salvaged interior stop molding.
22) For additional draught-proofing of lower sash consider replacing the existing inside stop molding with new. Install the barbed-pile on the edge of the stop molding touching the inside face of the lower sash.